We observe 3 jacket silhouettes:
The Italian one: with a lighter fabric, less (or no) padding, a tighter shape at the hips and patch pockets, this silhouette suits slimmer men or men with a bit of build. No openings in the back.
The British: Single or cross-buttoned, with notched or pique lapels, thicker fabric (for British weather) and padding at the shoulders and torso. This silhouette suits men with broad shoulders or a little overweight. 2 openings in the back.
The American: A fuller, straighter silhouette, without padding and with larger arm holes, this silhouette suits men who are overweight or very muscular. Often an opening in the back.
Today, more and more brands are mixing styles to create their own vision of the suit, but if you go to the tailor these notions are still relevant.
TIP! As with the vest, never close the last button on your jacket!
This type of jacket suits tall men with a rather imposing build and who have well-proportioned legs and torso.
Neutral position (middle)
This jacket is the most versatile and will fit most men, but especially men with longer legs.
This cut lengthens the torso and can refine the silhouette. It fits men with short legs or wide hips.
The lapels are continuations of the collar and are very important details of the jacket. The thinner your silhouette, the thinner the lapels should be and vice versa. But the most important thing is that the tie and shirt collar have the same proportions as the lapels.