THE CONSTRUCTION OF A SUIT

THE CONSTRUCTION OF A SUIT

If you are not familiar with the construction of a jacket, you can picture it by comparing it to the construction of a house: the breastplate and canvas are brick walls, and the fabric is simply paint. So it is the canvas or iron-on, and the breastplate, that make up the whole structure of the jacket.

Here are the 3 types of jackets :
Iron-on: the "canvas" is iron-on to the breastplate with micro dots of glue, which gives a clean fall but much less flexible than a canvas assembly. This is generally the case of the industrial-made Petite-Mesure or the Low Cost Ready-to-Wear.
Semi-Canvas: Sometimes called "semi-traditional". Here, the upper part of the canvas leaves the front free and not glued (this gives a more comfortable jacket to wear) and the lower part is held by micro dots of glue. The work to make this jacket is longer and the supplies are of higher quality.

All-canvas: sometimes called "traditional" or "full trad". The bib of the jacket is free and not glued, and a large canvas suit forms the skeleton of the front of the jacket. There is no more fusing, only sewing. This makes the jacket soft and very comfortable to wear, as well as having a more durable assembly, without glue.
Now that you know a little more about the types of tailoring of a suit jacket, let's look at the three categories of suits: Ready-to-Wear (RW), Small Size (SM) and Large Size (LS).

PAP suits can be found just about everywhere. They are available in all ranges and for all prices. The majority of costumes sold today are made of PAP. The shelves are overflowing!

This is the most common manufacturing method because it allows to produce large quantities of suits at a lower cost with patterns cut according to average measurements - hence the sacrosanct need for touch-ups! It is not necessarily bad manufacturing but it is simply a matter of knowing how to buy in the right place and at the right price. Then, all you have to do is go to a dressmaker / retoucher to make a few adjustments to perfect your look. I never neglect this point because, for a few extra euros, I can precisely adjust jackets and pants.

For the brand, the quality, and the price, we will try to sell you anything and at any price. For the costumes, I advise you to choose a company that makes costumes its specialty, that knows its work and does it well. Because we buy a suit for the accuracy of its cut and the quality of its fabric and its confection, not for its brand.