It is the centerpiece and the most complicated piece to make the men's wardrobe.
Let's start with the top of the jacket, the shoulders.
The shoulder pads must be flexible and natural, an epaulette too hard, too thick is a sign of poor workmanship, betraying an absence of frame (thermo suit or half-studded).
This one must be rolled up, a sign of the presence of the interlining that gives volume to your collar.
The width of the collar: very important, because it must take into account the width of your shoulder and your size.
The plumbing of a garment is done on your waist line, so the front of the garment falls evenly on your body.
If the jacket wrinkles, forming unsightly folds, the costume is 1/2 canvas, with a fully canvas suit, the folds are absent.
The full canvas gives more structure to the bottom of the jacket, which contributes to its plumbing. The half-canvas finishes above the buttoning so there is no structured bottom of the jacket.
The waist, the hip circumference, but also the crotch (flat buttocks, rounded, short ...), are taken into account in the measurement of your pants.
The fuselage will be made according to your thigh, knee, calf, and also according to the style you want, close to the body, ample, straight, flared.